Tuesday, August 02, 2005

Guatemala


After we left Zapata, with a promise to return in a week or 10 days, we weren't sure what to do. Originally we had planned to go the Lagos de Montebello, a series of 14 lakes in the jungle, but the Dr said Sierra can't swim for a week to 10 days. We finally decided to go to Guatemala.

We originally thought we'd go to Antigua as I've heard it's beautiful, and we were told it was only 4 hours over the border.

We crossed the border about 2 pm and it was really easy. I almost think we missed some checkpoint or something because it was so easy. As I hadn't done ANY homework about Guatemala, I had no idea what the exchange rate for Quetzals (Q) to dollars OR pesos was. I changed my last $400 pesos over at a rate of 7 quetzals to 10 pesos. We asked about a bus to get us to Antigua and were told we'd have to get to Huehuetenango first, and then a bus to Quetzaltenango, and then on to Antigua. We were told it was $100 Q for the bus ride on a chicken bus. I was doubtful it was this much as that is about $12.50 US and I remembered reading it was only about $0.60. We went ahead and paid and hopped on the bus and I asked around about the price, but no one seemed to know for sure. This was a true chicken bus. The seats are about 1 foot apart and it's an old school bus all painted funky with Jesus stickers everywhere...right next to the profile of the naked woman sitting sideways you sometimes see on the big rig mud flaps. A land of contradictions! Everywhere we looked, there were christian churches, bookstores and signs proclaiming Jesus.

Sierra and I sat in our seats and we each had one to ourselves. Within 10 minutes however, the bus was filling up fast. They must have eventually squeezed 125 people or more on that bus! There were 3 adults to each seat, plus kids...with the two seats Sierra and I were in, there were 8 people across...this is on a bus that is intended to have 2 children in each seat. I couldn't sit straight because my legs simply were too long to fit. A man got on with a little girl and was holding her up and had nowhere to sit. I'd heard that in this situation you take their kid for them, so I offered to hold her. She was about 3 and just came right to me, no problem...quiet as a mouse. She ended up falling asleep on me and it was really sweet. Sierra was squished up against the side of the bus, but she seemed to be doing okay.

Three hours later we arrived in Huehuetenango. We hopped on another bus and they charged us another $100 Q...I was really feeling that I was being taken advantage of and asked the lady sitting next to me. She told me it should be $24Q for the ride, not $100Q!!!! I was being overcharged by about $10 USD. BIG STUPID GRINGO must have been painted on my forehead.

On this bus, Sierra had to sit on my lap for 3 hours....I had a numb leg! I was also crowded and the sound of chicks were in the background. The guy walked by and I told him I needed my change..he nodded and kept walking. Another lady and a guy from Spain found out about what the guy had charged me and were incensed and went to the front of the bus to confront him and get me my money back. He played dumb. We finally arrived in Quetzaltenango at about 9 pm and I cornered the guy, with the help of Victor, the guy from Spain, and got my money back (VERY reluctantly!!!)...he first gave me back 20Q, then with prodding he gave me 40Q...then with more, he gave me 42Q. The bus was pulling away and he wasn't going to give me the full 76Q...Victor stepped in and argued with him and he finally gave it all to me. I bet he was bummed!!

Victor and Alice, who was from Paris, helped us find a hotel and showed us a bit around. I didn't want to go further that night as it was dark and we'd already been going all day. They are volunteers here and Victor has been here 1 month and Alice for 2 weeks. I am eternally grateful the Lord brought them to me to help me out and that they were so kind.

We are now in Quetzaltenango, also called Xela (Shell-ah). It is the 2nd largest city in Guatemala and is over run with foreighners...we're seeing more Americans here than we've seen anywhere in Mexico. We'll stay here until Friday or Saturday, and then head back to Zapata for awhile. I like Guatemala, and think we'll come back after Zapata...and I'll be a little more savvy next time!

We haven't explored too much, mostly just relaxed yesterday and checked email and whatnot today. We will spend the next few days exploring and seeing what's around.

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